From the field

By the river Gandak

In March, 2022 I was thrilled to find out that we were headed for a field trip to Bihar. I was excited for many reasons, including that this was going to be my first field trip with Technology for Wildlife Foundation - the experience of travelling to Bihar, encountering gharials and dolphins, the beauty of the Gandak (tributary of Ganga) and my first drone flight. The trip aimed to study the behaviour of gharials and Ganges river dolphins in the Gandak river during pre-monsoon season when the water levels of the river are shallow.

On the 15th of April, 2022, my colleagues and I left for our field trip to Bihar. We landed in Patna early that day and were later joined by our collaborators from Wildlife Conservation Trust (WCT). Together, we started for Bagaha - our field site, an amazing seven hour drive from Patna. It was the peak of summer and we needed to constantly hydrate ourselves. I was slightly tired of the heat and was trying hard to keep awake. Nevertheless, the Gangetic floodplains kept me in awe for the most part.

The next morning we left to survey the river after having chai and chole puri for breakfast. After setting up the boat with a CPOD (Cetacean and Porpoise Detection) to collect data on dolphin frequencies and other activity in the area, all of us hopped onto the boat to begin our survey. Our objective was to identify a good stretch of the river which could be the field site, a site with a good number of gharial and Gangetic river dolphin sightings. This boat ride was especially beautiful and memorable. We were in the middle of the vast stretches of the Gandak and its floodplains. The quietude of the Gandak was addictive. At one point, there was a large enough sandbar for us to hop-off the boat, where we tried flying a kite as the wind was on our side. The idea was to mount a camera and a GPS device to track the route to record features in such terrains. This was so much fun; we would probably try mounting the camera on our next field trip. The halt lasted for a good half an hour, after which we resumed the survey. By the evening, we were able to finalise the field site. We also spotted many birds, some turtles and gharials (thanks to binoculars), and a few dolphins! The day came to an end with a beautiful sunset by the river Gandak.

Our ride in the river Gandak. Image: Nancy Alice/ TfW

Our ride in the river Gandak. Image: Nancy Alice/ TfW.

The following day we arrived at the field site and prepped to fly the drones over gharials basking under the sun. We didn’t mean to disturb them but they were quite sensitive and would promptly glide back into the water when they heard our activities. We worked out how to operate our drones  and observed them happily without creating any disturbance. Drone-flying seems like an elegant art, from setting its orientation, launching it to getting it back to us. After a few flights by colleagues to observe gharials, I was prompted to fly it back home, with a brief primer on the controls. This was my first attempt with the drone and I was still learning how to navigate it. The toughest part though, was not being able to see the screen under such sunny conditions, and to keep a track of the battery. One of my colleagues, Shashank kept referring to video games as the best practice to have a better understanding of drone controls. Hence, video games and drone flying are up next on the bucket list for me. 

Most gharial captures were smooth as they would be basking on the sandbars, so they were clearly visible. The dolphin captures were comparatively more spontaneous and calculated. Among others, we had identified a mother and baby dolphin in our field site. Its sightings would be frequent at certain times during the day. If the weather was not windy at those times, we flew the drones over them to observe and were able to capture them swimming happily. These captures were delightful. It would often start with one of us spotting some frantic splashes in the water followed by a confirmation from the binocular personnel and then the drones launched. Spontaneous and almost ticklish! We analysed the drone videos the following day and worked on making drone transects for better video capture of gharials and dolphins. Over the days that followed, we flew the drones in pre-programmed transects and analysed the imagery for sightings. I remember having a good long conversation with Shashank, where he was explaining the legal rules of drone flying. It cleared a lot of doubts on  safe and sustainable drone flying. 

In conclusion, the field site was beautiful! Oranges, cucumbers and bananas kept us happy amidst the summer days. We would often catch the sunset by the river. Even on the last day at the field site, we sat by the banks and gazed at the beauty of the river. The river was super gracious to let us peep into some of the life it housed and for the unforgettable sunsets.

Sunset at the field site.

The next day we drove to the Valmiki Tiger Reserve at the India-Nepal border. The temperatures dropped slightly enroute to the reserve. After ten days of gazing at floodplains, we were then resting our eyes upon the Shivalik ranges at the horizon. We took a safari at the tiger reserve and it was calming to go around the trees. We spotted a number of avian beauties in the reserve - Emerald doves, Orange-headed thrush and the Paradise Flycatcher. Towards the end of the safari, we experienced mild showers, followed by hail stones. We rushed inside a temple complex to take shelter. Although brief, this little encounter with the temple was memorable. 

Author at the banks of the river Gandak. Nancy Alice/ TfW

The trip was a great learning experience for me and I am grateful for this opportunity. One of the greatest takeaways would be the discussions with my colleagues and collaborators about their journey through conservation and their love for the wild. While I reminisce over the memories of Gandak, I look forward to my next trip and hopefully as a trained drone pilot!

August 28th (Ladakh Lakes #7)

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Shashank’s birthday might have been the best day of the trip for all of us! We had been working to put together a little card for him- with Gabriella’s doodles and messages from us all that we glued together with candle wax. We were heading to a new field site that day. It was the first time we were leaving the tourist circuit and we were all excited to see what we would find. The journey was incredible. Stoic brown mountains would open out in bits into green meadows and we could see marmots popping in and out of the ground like they were performing a song in a Disney Movie.Soon, we reached the Indus. It was the first time any of us was encountering this fierce river that has shaped so much of the sub-continent’s history. Almost as soon as we crossed the river, it felt like the landscape began to change. Like most other people, I’d seen hundreds of photographs of Ladakh before ever going there and this was not even my first trip up there. Besides, we had already been in the field for over a week so I didn’t expect to be surprised. But  the landscape changed fast and I was completely stunned. Brown mountains turned to purple and then white and then black. I had never imagined rocks and sand or mountains could ever look like this. As if the place wasn't stunning enough, we spotted two black necked cranes just by the side of the highway, at a spot that isn’t commonly known to have them and were able to get  a closer look than even Tso Kar. Shashank managed to get some beautiful photographs too- talk about a happy birthday!

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Onwards, the landscape only got more magical. Small towns, propped up on jagged hills looked like mystical kingdoms and herds of Kiang ran across the valley and  I couldn’t believe what I was seeing. But it was about to get better still. As we ascended towards our field site, clouds covered the sky and it began to hail. Suddenly, the vast brown landscape was speckled with white and just as we turned a corner, we saw a lake literally sparkling in the distance. We made our way towards the most surreal place I’ve ever been. The lake was a crystal blue that I’ve never seen before in a natural environment. We were freezing but were very excited to take the Trident out because it looked like there could be a dragon living in the depths!

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We completed our field work and needed to head to another lake for a survey. But delayed by road blocks and hail; we were way behind schedule and had not had a chance to eat lunch. There was a lone tent by the side of this lake and Topden, our resourceful driver had no intention of skipping lunch. He was familiar with this area because he used to come here to assist with medical camps and vaccination programs. He spoke with the lady at the tent who graciously agreed to have us in for lunch. The tent was beautiful. IT was bright , so clean and well organized and the lake listened through the entrance. We communicated in pieces and smiles through Topden and she fed us fresh butter and curd and this was probably my favourite moment in the whole trip.

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Having completed the other lake survey we returned to our rest house for the night which was at a monastery. Situated in the midst of barren brown lands, this bright and colourful building stood out magnificently. We were looking at this royal structure when Shashank called out to us to rush to come see something. The excitement was well worth it because a puppy about the size of his face was waddling towards us. He was a ball of fluff and excitement- he looked like an animation of a puppy. The rest of our time there was spent playing with and squishing this puppy..

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After a fresh and warm dinner, cooked so kindly and eaten in the warm kitchen, we created an ad-hoc (but as indulgent) version of a serradura as Shashank’s birthday cake with condensed milk, marie biscuits, Dairy Milk chocolate and coffee powder. We then sat around together after dinner feasting on this bowl of (mostly) cream, and playing cards. At one point, Gaby, Raghav and I walked out of the monastery to use the washroom and when we were walking back in, we all paused at the entrance of the Monastery. I forget why we stopped there in the first place, but once we were there, we couldn’t leave. We stopped talking and it was one of those moments, when you could feel your mind making a memory. It was pitch dark and the you could just about distinguish the structure of the monastery but we could smell the incense that had been burning in the evening. Above was a sky densely full of stars. I’m not even sure how long we stood there but I definitely felt very grateful to be there that crisp night. Also grateful to then return  to the warmth of the room to play rummy and beat Raghav in every round :)

High-altitude Desserts (Ladakh Lakes #6)

Driving through the mountains for hours on end makes one hungry. After nine hours of being on the road, the Ladhaki landscape appeared edible.  Dusty brown chocolate truffle mountains, sharp Black Forest cake mountains, purple blueberry pie mountains and soft tiramisu-like caramel colored mountains topped with snow. Running through this delicious landscape is the River Indus: chocolate milkshake making its way through pancake plains. Ladakh is truly the land of high-altitude desserts.

Tso Kar lay at the end of one of these delectable drives, where a hot bowl of Maggie noodles put an end to my food-related hallucinations. Tso Kar, a vast salt water lake, sits at the center of a mosaic of bright green marshland and smooth white salt mounds hosting a range of rare species such as the black-necked crane and the kiang.

 

The salt mounds and wetlands of the Tso Kar basin

The salt mounds and wetlands of the Tso Kar basin

Here in Tso Kar, everything is beautiful. The elegant birds that inhabit the plains, the local people whose sun-wrinkled skin deepens their smiles, the ornate monastery with bright colored murals… I could go on. What I found most beautiful of all was that the community that lives around Tso Kar still follows its nomadic traditions. I found it fascinating that close to a hundred families should pack up their belongings, gather the old and the young and move across the plains through the summer, herding their animals till winter came. Without romanticizing the hardships of their lives, I am in awe of their connection to the landscape and the seasons, their local knowledge and their willingness to follow a nomadic existence in spite of the influence that tourism has had on the region. I wonder how many of the younger nomads value this hard yet beautiful way of living and how many of them have desires of living in a city with access to a school, a hospital and an internet connection.

The Thukje gonpa

The Thukje gonpa

 

With the melting of the snow and the opening of the mountain passes, visitors like myself pour into Ladakh, bringing with us our fast paced, mall-cultured, Swiggy- assisted lives. I wonder if there is a way of amalgamating these two worlds in such a way that the communities that inhabit Tso Kar are able to choose the future they want. I am so grateful to have witnessed this stunning alien landscape at this pivotal moment in time.

The author, with edible mountains behind her.

The author, with edible mountains behind her.